It was time to push on with the transmission swap. I watched the CJ Pony Parts video and wrote a list how I should proceed with the project. So let's go through it.
1. Remove The Shifter
To remove the shifter, I simply lifted the rubber boot and unscrewed the two bolts under it. Seems that there should be four screws holding the rubber boot to the transmission tunnel but mine were missing.
2. Drain The Oil
I had done this already by unscrewing the drain plug with an adjustable wrench and letting the oil out to a container.
3. Remove The Drive Shaft
Again an easy job of unscrewing four nuts at the back of the drive shaft, removing the U bolts and then pulling the yoke out of the transmission. I will probably have to shorten the drive shaft before putting it back in but that needs to be measured when the T5 is in the car.
4. Remove the Starter Motor
The starter is held on to the bellhousing with two bolts. I removed those and left the starter hanging by the cable from the starter relay. Then I loosened the cable retainer bolt and removed the starter motor.
5. Separator Plate Bolts
While working with the starter, I also removed the two bolts from the front of the bellhousing that hold the bottom lip of the separator plate in place.
6. Clutch Linkage
Next I removed the clutch linkage. It was held on by a cotter pin and could then be pulled out.
7. Speedo cable
The speedometer cable goes to the back of the transmission and is held on with one bolt. Unscrew that and the gear can be pulled out.
8. Back Up Light Switch
My back up light switch wire came through the shifter opening. I separated the connector and left the switch itself connected to the transmission.
9. Disconnect The Transmission From The Bellhousing
It was time to move to the heavier stuff. I loosened the four bolts that hold the transmission to the bellhousing. I left the bottom two loosely in place so they support the transmission for now.
10. Disconnect The Crossmember
I removed the two nuts that hold the transmission to the crossmember. Surprisingly they were not completely rusted and came off quite easily.
11. Loosen The Transmission From The Engine
I wiggled the transmission a bit until it started to separate from the bellhousing. This is where the two bolts that I left there stopped it from coming out completely.
12. Support The Weight Of The Transmission
I places an extra cinder block under the transmission and used my floor jack to take the weight of the transmission off the crossmember.
13. Disconnect The Handbrake Cable
By loosening the handbrake adjuster nut I could remove the lever that was attached to the crossmember.
14. Remove The Crossmember
With the weight off, I hammered out the two bolts that held the crossmember to the frame. It was a pretty tight fit but I just managed to get the crossmember out from between the exhaust pipes. I had not removed them for the swap.
15. Drop The Old Transmission
This is where I got into some trouble. I did not dare to just lie under the transmission and try to lift it out. It would probably just fall on me and cause some injury. Nor did I have a lifter tool to use. The small floor jack didn't lift high enough and the transmission would just probably roll off it.
Finally I just decided to let the transmission drop down. Not straight to the floor though. I placed two cinder blocks under it and placed the old interior carpets on them for padding. Then I pulled the transmission out and carefully let it come down on the carpet. Next I added some steps and more carpets and gradually pulled the transmission down on the floor. It took a long time but finally the heaviest part was out of the car.
16. Take The Thrush Bearing Out
The thrust bearing is just placed in the groove of the clutch fork. It comes out by sliding it to the side.
17. Remove The Bellhousing
The bellhousing is attached to the engine with six bolts. I had to remove the two top ones through the hood and the other from below. Then the bellhousing should just drop down with a few slight taps.
18. Remove The Clutch
Next under the bellhousing is the clutch. It seemed that mine had been replaced at some point and was attached with six allen head bolts. Unscrew them and the clutch drops down.
19. Remove The Flywheel
The six bolts holding the flywheel were pretty tight. Turning them would just rotate the engine. So I screwed in two of the clutch bolts and placed the jack handle between them. It contacted with the exhaust pipe and prevented the engine from turning further. Then apply some force and the bolts come out.
20. Remove The Separator Plate
With the flywheel out, the separator plate under it is not held on with anything and should come out with some wiggling.
Assembly
Next I can start the assembly. I need to take the bellhousing and flywheel to a machine shop first though. To use the T5 adapter plate, two holes must be drilled to the bellhousing and I do not dare to do them by hand. They can sand the flywheel too. I'll have to ask them what they think about its condition first though. Seems that there are some small fractures in it.