Disassembling The Engine Part 3

Yeah, as the replacement engine turned out to be in even worse condition than my original, I decided to bite the bullet and restore the original motor now. That meant tearing it down. I had the Mustang moved to the rented garage and got to work.

A few hours later I had removed the intake manifold and pulled the heads. Things looked pretty good inside the engine.

I could feel a slight ridge in the cylinder walls with tip of my fingers but they did not catch my nail when running it across them. I'm really hoping it can be removed without overboring the cylinders as that would mean getting new pistons. Well, I'll take the block to a machinist and ask what can be done.

Disassembling The Engine Part 2

Finally it was time to drop the crankshaft. Everything around it had been removed so I could get it out of the engine. First I had to remove all the connecting rod caps. They are attached with just two nuts so I removed them and pulled the caps. I stored them in order so I can put them back in the same positions.

Next I loosened the main caps and made sure the crank came down with them. Finally, very carefully, I removed caps and took the crank down.

It was time to check the damage. The crank journals seemed pretty good and only two had some small scratched that I could feel with my finger. Hopefully I can just have it polished and put it back.

The bearings had taken most of the damage. Here's a photo of the mains.

All of then have worn down to the copper. No wonder the oil pressure dropped a bit when idling. The rod bearings were not much better.

So now everything necessary has hopefully been taken off the engine so I can service the parts and start putting everything back together. We'll see how that goes. I'm especially nervous how I can get the crank back in and attach all the connecting rods...

Disassembling The Engine Part 1

With the course laid in, it was time to tear down the engine. First I drained the coolant and removed the radiator. This gave me enough room to get the fan out. Then I disconnected the alternator wires, unbolted it and lifted it out. Now I could get to the water pump and remove it.

The harmonic balancer was a bit more tricky to get out. I removed the three bolts that hold the pulley to the damper and then had to get the large crank bolt out. It is so tight that you need to prevent the engine from turning. I did that by adding two of the flywheel bolts to the back of the crank, placed my jack handle between them and turned the engine until the handle touched the exhaust. Now the crank would not turn and I could get the bolt out.

Finally I needed a puller to get the damper out. My friend had one so I borrowed it. He had made it by welding two pieces of iron together and drilling four holes to it. Simple but effective and I soon had the balancer out.

DIY harmonic balancer puller

Now the road was clear for the timing chain cover. I unbolted the fuel pump from it and then removed the cover itself.

The timing chain itself can be pulled out by just removing the fuel pump eccentric and then wiggling the gears until they come free. The chain had quite a lot of play so it's definitely time to replace it.

Before continuing to drop the crank, I removed the oil pump and then cleaned the parts a bit to see what new stuff I needed. Luckily most were in pretty good condition. The chain cover was almost like new. No rust, just a lot of dirt. I'll clean it, paint it and put it back.

The water pump was also really good. So good that I suspect that it has been replaced at some point. No rust inside or out and no play in the shaft. No need to replace it either.

Finally I checked the damper and again found nothing wrong with it. The rubber seemed good so it can be reused after some more cleaning.

So only the oil pump, timing chain and bearings need to be replaced. Unless I find more surprises...

Old and new oil pumps

New Federal Mogul timing chain