Engine Assembly: Valve Train

It would be easier to adjust the valves without the intake manifold so I decided to tackle it next. First I had to find out the correct length for my push rods though. I installed the solid lifters again and placed the 6.800 inch standard length rods on them. To test the rocker contact, I used black marker to color the tops of the valves.

Then I set the valve lash to zero and rotated the engine a few turns.

After loosening the rockers again I could see that the intake valve contact was pretty good but the exhaust valves were a bit off center towards the outboard side. This meant that the rods were too long. I used an adjustable rod to find the correct length which was about 6.73 inches. Rod closest to that length that I could find was Trick Flow 6.750 inches long so I bought eight of them. I did the marker test once more and the results were pretty good

Now I had everything to finalize the valve train installation. After cleaning and spreading some Schneider Cam Lube to the bottom of the lifters, I dropped them in their bores. As all parts were new, their order did not matter. The instructions that came with them also mentioned that they should be installed without filling them with oil so I left them empty.

I dipped the heads of the push rods in assembly lube and dropped them in place. Then all I had to do was adjust the valves and I was done. Monroes book has a good picture how you can adjust all valves in three steps. No need to find TDC for each cylinder so I went with that. I tightened the nut until all slack was taken from the rods and then turned 180 degrees more. This should set the lifter preload correctly.