Engine Assembly: Water Pump

I noticed a small problem with my oil pan: the threads were pretty much gone from the drain plug hole. I do not want to risk it opening during driving so I'll have to fix it before installing the pan. Perhaps by welding a nut to the inside of the pan.

I let the pan wait and installed the water pump in stead. It had a small problem too. I had opened the back plate to inspect the insides but it seemed that the gasket there was not included in any of my kits. Neither is it included in my friends "complete engine gasket set" so I had to visit the parts store to get it. Just remember to get it separately if you plan to open the pump...

To seal the back plate to my cast iron pump, I spread some Hylomar on the gasket surface...

...placed the gasget on it and added more Hylomar to the other side...

...and installed the back plate. To make sure it was located correctly and to give the sealer time to dry, I added a bunch of bolts and tightened them to squeeze the gasket in.

After letting the back plate settle, I removed the bolts and installed the rear gasket. It had to only seal the water passages so I added Hylomar around them and set the gasket on it.

Finally I placed the pump on the front cover and located it with the bolts. I used new locking washers on all and torqued them to 15 ft-lbs. Pump installation done!

Engine Assembly: Oil Pump

Final task before closing the bottom end was installing the oil pump. I had a new pump and after checking the old pickup tube, I decided to replace it too. The old one was pretty dirty and I did not want the crud getting loose in my new engine. Weird thing about the new pump was that it included the gasket between the pump and the tube but not the one between the block and pump. None of my other sets included it either but luckily my friends had an extra that I could use.

Before installing the pump, I unbolted its cover to check the inside. Everything seemed to be clean and good for use.

I put the cover back on and started the install. I lubricated the pump drive shaft and dropped it in its hole. Next I placed the correct gasket on the block and bolted the pump in place. Monroe said not to use any sealant in the pump gaskets so I left it out. But I did use a little drop of thread locker in the bolts so they would not come out while driving. I also checked that the drive shaft could not be pulled out of the pump and torqued the bolts to 25 ft-lbs.

Now I could bolt the pickup tube to the pump. The gasket went in first and then I just bolted the tube in place. Again using some thread locker before torquing the bolts to 15 ft-lbs.

Engine Assembly: Harmonic Balancer

My original damper was otherwise in good shape but I did notice a small groove where the front seal had ridden on it. Tom Monroes book mentions that you could buy a small sleeve that is installed over the seal surface. Luckily US-Parts had them in stock so I went and bought one. The box contained some glue/sealer that was first spread on the damper and then the sleeve itself was carefully tapped in.

The groove most likely had not been large enough to leak but I don't want to take any chances. Now I could install the damper. First I spread some lube on the seal surface and inside the bore.

And it was time to put the damper in. I pushed it as far as I could by hand and then put the crank bolt in to finish the deal. Quite soon the crank started turning with the bolt so I had to prevent that. I used a small pry bar that I placed between the counterweight and the block.

Now I could torque the bolt to 75 ft-lbs and the damper installation was done.

Engine Assembly: Timing Chain

To install the timing chain, I first brought the number one piston to firing position, or top dead center (TDC). The key on the crankshaft was now pointing directly up. Then I placed the camshaft gear on its key and turned the cam until the small marking dot on the gear was pointing directly down. Now the rotating parts were close to correct.

I removed the cam sprocket again and then slid the crank gear in until it started to contact the key. Then it was time to get the chain. I placed it on the cam gear and positioned it so that the two dots on the gears were pointing at each other. Next I wrapped the chain on the crank and pushed both gears in until the keys held them in position. Before fully installing them, I made sure the dots were still directly opposite of each other. Luckily I got it correct on the first try so I didn't have to remove the gears to try again. By wiggling and tapping the gears with a rubber mallet, I got them almost completely in.

To see that everything moved correctly, I rotated the crank a few turns. No problems found so I also installed the fuel pump cam. Its bolt pulled the cam gear in the rest of the way. I torqued it to 45 ft-lbs and added a little dab of thread locker for good measure. Final piece was placing the oil slinger over the crankshaft extension.